Skip to content

The Bozzi Burger Is Still A Winner

December 28, 2010

I am a big fan of the Palm restaurant’s Bozzi burger, which I think is one of the most underrated high-profile burgers out there. The Palm is a respectable chain (especially here in New York where it was born), and the Bozzi is an interesting take on a burger that gets quite a few things right.

Behold the Bozzi.

The Bozzi is a pretty substantial size, although it seems to me that on the most recent occasion of sampling it it may have been a bit smaller than I recall. Seems to me I used to have a problem simply finishing it, which was not the case this time. Who knows – maybe I was hungrier.  As you can see, it is served with onion strings atop it, and the red sauce on the left there is in fact a small drizzle of BBQ sauce (which I didn’t know they added).

Prepare to bite.

I usually apply ketchup and mayo to a burger, though some purists may accuse me of cheating since the mayo fattens up the flavor. Either way, it’s what I like. But back to the Bozzi.

The first thing that hits you when you bite into it, other than a surprising amount of juiciness, is a strong salt, which I think is pushed forward by the onion strings.

Medium rare goodness.

However, after the first few chews, you will quickly detect the calcium, close-to-the-bone flavor that I love about a good burger or steak. However, what really makes the Bozzi particularly special is the char. They must cook it at one hell of a heat because as you can see the medium rare comes out just right but has this amazingly wonderful char, which gives the burger a faint crunch and awakens the whole beefy, salty,  juicy, delicious experience. It’s a winner.

The delicious, home-made chips. Piping hot too.

There are a couple of other reasons I enjoy the Palm. If there is a better purveyor of home-made cottage fries than the Palm in New York City, I don’t know. They come out crispy, hot and delicious, well salted and pretty much ideal. I could eat them all day and they pose a serious risk of ruining you for other chips, which will all seem inferior after trying these (at least those that come out of a bag). I always look forward to an order of them when I’m there.

Just look at it... fresh, hot, delicious.

I mean that is pretty close to an ideal chip. I’m about to watch a football game and all I want is a bucket of these right next to me.

A marti doesn't hurt, either.

They also have a talented bartender who makes a delicious martini. Notice the skating on top. Delicious.

All in all, I definitely recommend the Bozzi at the Palm. I think there are places in town that serve better steak (though the Palm’s is respectable), and these days I’m enjoying Mel’s as far as burgers go more than anywhere else, but you’d do well to try the Palm’s fare and get a delicious Bozzi et al.

The Palm Restaurant

Multiple locations, check their website
www.thepalm.com

Schnitzel & Things Impresses

December 27, 2010

That's a big sandwich.

It had been a while since I tried the food from the Schnitzel & Things truck. Seems to me I used to get their platters, which included a large piece of schnitzel and some sides served in a plastic container. I recall thinking though that the sandwich was the way to go, and decided to remember why.  Immediately upon receiving my order, I remembered: It’s huge! Biggest sandwich from a truck I’ve gotten.

Fried goodness.

The schnitzel’s texture is crispy, but it gives. At the vendor’s suggestion, I got the pork schnitz with spicy sriracha and ginger, scallion and garlic relish. The effect was very pleasant. The sriracha adds just a bit of heat, just enough to wake it up, but not enough to overwhelm. It works well with the rich bread coating.  The ginger, scallion & garlic relish melded well with the other flavors, but added a strong salt.

The schnitzels are (naturally) thin.

The bread itself is a bit surprising. It looks like its substantial, but really it’s more like a pita in its texture when you tear into it. The lettuce and tomato aren’t particularly fresh and seem like an afterthought… they could be better (then again, it is December). Tasting this I think more of the flavors come from the breading, dressing and such than the actual substance being schnitzed. I suppose there’s a pork note in there somewhere, but I couldn’t really tell, and it doesn’t much matter. I guess it is akin to finding the pork note in an egg roll. I will say that this texture flavor combo makes me strongly consider getting the cod schnitzel next time. Overall, the sandwich was delicious and offers superior bang for buck – it’s a lot of good eating.

Schnitzel  & Things

Moves to various locations around Manhattan, check their website for info.
www.schnitzelandthings.com

Carnegie Deli… As Though I Needed To Tell You About It

December 23, 2010

Do I really need to tell you about the Carnegie Deli? It’s a New York institution, the quintessential Jewish deli of the old school. No, that’s not a knock against the excellent Katz’s or numerous other delis in town, but I think it’s very hard to argue the central role Carnegie Deli plays in the scene.

The knish is massive.

My officemates were thoughtful enough to pick some up for us and bring it back to work. They made the bold and excellent decision to get some knishes. I say bold because these leviathans are scarcely needed when dining at Carnegie, which is legendary for their massive skyscrapers of cured meat towering clumsily atop an overwhelmed slice of rye bread.

Either way, the knish was a good move. As you can see, it had a flaky, sesame-seed crust. Within was a surprisingly smooth, extremely rich and buttery preparation of potato which was widely regarded as full of win.

But on to the meat.

Delicious.

Behold the pastrami from Carneguie Deli. Now I don’t know what the precise deal is, but over the years, my reaction to their signature meat has changed. I think perhaps (although this seems inconceivable) that they’ve changed their recipe, supplier, or curing over time, because for the 30 or so years I’ve been eating their pastrami, it seems to have gone through a few iterations. I remember when they used to machine cut it so thin with meat so lean that it barely seemed to resemble pastrami (the bad years). However, in the past few years, they seem to have gotten back on track with a more flavorful, better cured, better textured meat.

Yum.

They’ve also toned down the size of the sandwiches. I remember when there was truly no point to having them between the bread, as one half of a sandwich had more than enough meat for one person. Now, it seems much more conceivable that one person could get through a sandwich, even with splitting the knish beforehand. I’m sad to say, though, on this particular day the pastrami meat was a bit too fatty (and here I was earlier excoriating them for serving it too lean). But when there are several large, inedible, gum-like wads of fatty gristle interfering with your enjoyment of the sandwich (and threatening to choke you) in one sandwich, you know you’ve had a poor cut. Personally, I miss the days of the hand-cut pastrami sandwich (Carnegie’s are still machine sliced, like most places in town). Only hand-cut pastrami delivers the complete experience, in my opinion. All that said, the flavor was right on target.

The corned beef is also excellent.

We also split a corned beef sandwich, which I always enjoy, but of course lacks the mmph-y twang of pastrami. It’s rich and delicious, but I’ll stick with the pastrami, even if this particular sandwich wasn’t the best they’ve ever rendered.

Look, Carnegie Deli is a New York institution and respect must be given. The knish was surprisingly decadent, rich and tasty and I’ll get it again. The pastrami is very good these days – excellent, really – and I will continue to go back to this place for years to come, as I have before. If you’re planning a visit to New York, it’s well worth going.

Carnegie Deli

854 7th Ave
New York, NY 10019
212.757.2245
www.carnegiedeli.com

Fatty Crew & Cascabel At Holiday Pop-UpMarket

December 22, 2010

Ok, so it’s still cold, but it was sufficiently less cold for me to take another run at the Holiday Pop-Up Market in Columbus Circle, especially since they’re shutting down in just a few days. This time, though, I thought I’d take a run at the Fatty Crew beef sandwich, since it sort of looked sexy, and I am a fan (more or less) of Fatty Crab.

So disappointing... .

What a disappointment. The sandwich was totally boring, and tiny for $7. The braised beef had no particular mmph, the “cheese sauce” seemed more like a generous smear of mayo, and the chilis barely added any heat at all.

Two bites later, only two bites to go. Really?

It was so small that in just two bites I had already eaten half of the thing. I found myself feeling like a huge sucker. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not bad, per se, it’s just totally uninteresting and a waste of time (and money). The most interesting thing about was the light, toasted bun. Sheesh!

Carnitas = yummy!

Determined not to let the whole effort be a complete waste, I decided to sample a $3 carnita from Cascabel. It too is quite small, although it is a good portion of meat. They give you some lime to squeeze on top. Guess what? It was delicious.

Delicious. Pretty, too!

It was rich, a touch smoky, good onion sweetness, and in every regard so much better than the beef sandwich I regretted not getting three of them and declaring victory for lunch. I think the carnita may have even beaten out the previously tried fried chicken biscuit from Pies N Thighs, and it now stands as “the thing to get” at this market for me.

The Holiday Market at Columbus Circle – with these vendors and more – is open until Dec. 24.

Columbus Circle
57th & Central Park West
New York, NY 10023